Here's what I discovered:
Henna has Lawsone, a tannin dye molecule, in its leaves. You can't see it because it is masked by the chlorophyll (you know the reason grass & leaves are green). When you pulverize the leaves and mix them with a slightly acidic liquid such as lemon juice, the dye molecule becomes available as the cell walls' cellulose dissolves. The dye molecule can then migrate out of the paste, breach cuticle cell walls in the hair shaft, and bind with the keratin.
If the idea of Lawsone "migrating" from henna paste into keratin seems confusing, compare it to this: if you put a wet teabag on a white table cloth, the tannin in the tea "migrates" from the teabag into the cloth fibers, binds with those fibers, and leaves a stain. And, the longer you leave the teabag there, the darker the stain.
Body art quality henna has higher dye content than hair quality henna, so more Lawsone is available to saturate the cuticle.
To release Lawsone efficiently, while preserving the hydrogen atoms necessary to bind the molecule to the keratin, mix henna powder with an acidic liquid, and leave it at room temperature overnight.
(Source: http://www.hennaforhair.com/henna/index.html)
TRUE henna colors the hair red/orange.
Black henna is not henna at all but called INDIGO.
Black henna, a green powder that smells like frozen peas, is neither black nor henna. It is indigo, Indigofera tinctoria. (EXCELLENT Source: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/index.html)
Neutral henna is not henna at all but called Cassia Obotava. Neutral henna, a green powder that smells like freshly cut grass, is neither henna nor neutral. It is Cassia obovata. Cassia obovata contains anthraquinones, particularly Chrysophanic acid, a remarkable anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-bacterial. Cassia obovata has a golden dye molecule that will stain dull blonde and gray hair yellow. It will help damaged hair, make hair full, glossy, healthy. (EXCELLENT Source: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/index.html)
My hair does NOT turn red or orange when using Red henna.
• The few grey hairs I have turn a really pretty red. To be honest with you, if I didn't part my hair and show the area, no one would even notice.
• It does provide a "richness" to my hair color. Since I am naturally deep-dark brown in my hair color (looks black to off-black), my hair color doesn't look dull. Actually henna keeps my hair from looking drab.
The following website even offers a FREE, did y'all hear me? I said FREE downloadable e-book. (SERIOUSLY...no strings attached) Check the website out too...I found it to be awesome.
Here's the link, http://www.hennaforhair.com/freebooks/hennaforhair.pdf.
Here's my regimen:
Ingredients & Tools:
• Herbal Henna (get it at my local Indian Grocer = $1.99/bag + 7% sales tax)
• Lime/Lemon Juice (generic brand is fine)
• Petroleum Jelly
• Inexpensive Conditioner
• Deep Conditioner
• Castile Soap or SLS-free Shampoo
• PLASTIC Hair Clips
• Wide-tooth Comb
• Plastic Rattail Comb or Color Application Brush
• Large Plastic or Glass Bowl
• Plastic Mixing Spoon
• Plastic bag or cap
• Saran Wrap
• Clock/Timer
• Rubber/
• 2-3 old Towels
• Vinyl Gloves
• Patience
Tip #1: If lemon/lime juice is too drying to the hair: Brew some tea (I brew green tea from the dollar store) & use that instead of lemon/lime juice.
Tip #2: I add a couple of teaspoons of oil to my henna. NOPE, no way will it hinder the color effects of the henna.
Tip #3: If you wanna sleep with henna all night, you can.
Tip #4: I've just henna'd my roots, you know the portion that has grown, instead of glossing or henna-ing my entire head. Did just the job coloring those awkward greys that want to mysteriously pop up out of only GOD knows where.
Instructions:
1. Combine Henna & lemon juice (1 bag per 16 oz. of ReaLemon juice)
2. Mix to a cake batter texture.
3. Tightly cover with plastic wrap (try to make sure all of the air is out).
4. Place in a warm area of your home overnight.
5. Night before, pre-poo with oil of your choice and/or conditioner, wrap in a plastic cap/bag.
6. Next day...henna color should have released.
7. Stir and make sure it's smooth, and add some additional ReaLemon if needed. (Use your judgment.)
8. Make sure you are wearing clothes you don't mind ruining. (Henna can be messy).
9. Cover your bathroom with newspapers.
10. Wash hair with castile soap (making sure to detangle under running water).
11. While hair is wet, DETANGLE, DETANGLE, DETANGLE, separate into 4 sections & bind off with hair clips. (I usually separate with my fingers.)
12. Wrap hair in a towel & towel dry as much as possible.
13. Make sure you have a big enough mirror to see and I start from the back left-side. (Don’t ask me why....I just do.)
14. Apply petroleum jelly around your edges & ears to protect your ears and skin from being stained.
15. Put your rubber gloves on; scoop out some henna from your bowl and apply the henna directly to your parted hair from root to tip.
16. Once that section is completely saturated with henna, lightly twist and clip hair.
17. Proceed completing all sections of the hair; making sure to re-apply henna to your edges (that's where most of my grey hairs are).
18. Once hair is fully covered with henna, remove clips, and completely wrap hair with saran wrap.
19. Apply plastic cap.
20. You can leave on for a few hours; I personally leave my henna on overnight. (Just lazy).
21. Whenever you decide to remove henna, I rinse until the water runs clear.
22. Apply inexpensive conditioner (saturate hair with it)...this helps remove leftover henna pieces.
23. Rinse and apply again if necessary. (you may need to rinse with cheapy conditioner 2, 3 or even 4 times)
24. Once hair is thoroughly rinsed, detangle and add deep conditioner of your choice.
25. Place plastic cap on hair and sit under a heated dryer for 45 minutes to an hour. (I have tons of hair, so I usually sit for an hour.)
26. Rinse and style as usual.
Whew...sounds like a lot, but it's not. Remember to have patience.
